After a few days we ventured higher and into the Ulley Valley to stay with local headman Tsewang Norboo. Norboo tracks Snow Leopards!
The Snow Leopard is the most enigmatic of all the world's large cats and, having grown up glued to every wildlife documentary ever made, I knew that they are nigh on impossible to see in the wild. But in Ladakh, things are changing...
Although Snow Leopards are not aggressive towards humans they will prey on sheep and goats so are killed by locals who cannot afford to lose their precious livestock. Since 2005 Snow Leopard Conservancy has worked with local communities to physically secure livestock enclosures, offer alternative income via a tourist homestay scheme and deliver an environmental education and wildlife conservation programme. As a direct result Snow Leopards are now being seen in some areas of rural Ladakh.
So... sandwiched between a gang of duvets too excited to sleep - I might just see one of the most beautiful cats and in breathtaking Himalayan mountain scenery - ay, caramba!